The first Fundamental series were released in December 2017, they have been discontinued for a while now but new Fundamentals series will be available starting on the 18th of July 2023. These new series are a selection of previously released brushes paired with some new designs. The eye brushes are still in production but the face brushes are ready!
The handles used on the first Fundamentals were lacquered black to red, they had the Sonia G logo symbol at the bottom and they were thicker and heavier in comparison to the more recent collections- the PRO and SKY series.
As we carried on our Fude journey and brought other collections, we discontinued this very first release.
Some of these previous designs had to be discontinued because we could not get the same materials with the same quality anymore. Others were discontinued because as we launched other series, the functionality of some brushes was somehow duplicated and we were not able to justify keeping the production for all of them.
I loved the first thicker handles, they were quite a statement in terms of size and look, although I know they were not the easiest to carry around.
When these handles were designed, I was either going for a design with a black to red gradation or, the other option that I loved was to use a luxurious wood and leave the handles unlacquered. I loved both but I thought the red to black was the most intriguing option because of the lacquers used, the complexity in the coating methods and how much work those handles actually required!
Time has passed since that first release and since then, we have been working with luxurious wood materials like yakusugi, keyaki, and hinoki for the handles. We also used walnut wood for the Brush Holder, it’s out of stock at the moment but currently in production and should be back in a couple of months.
Today, I recognise how much work and craftsmanship has been put in all the handles, and, while this is very important, the aesthetics and ergonomics may be the main reasons to steer us towards one or the other.
I have received a lot of messages asking me to bring the original Fundamental brushes back in stock, and this was the opportunity for me to finally use walnut wood for the handles and showcase precious Japanese craftsmanship techniques that we have incorporated in the process.
So, almost 6 years later, we are bringing back a selection of the very first Fundamentals paired with these new walnut handles. We have reduced the number of brushes in these 2 series to 6 face brushes and 8 eye brushes. Today we are ready to dive into the face set, it will launch both as a set and as individuals!
This is going to be a very long post; you can continue reading or click on a title below to jump to that section directly!
- The new walnut handles
- The logos
- The brushes
– The evolution of the First Fundamentals
– The fans
– Fan L
– Fan M
– Fan A
– Classic Cheek, Soft Buffer, Worker L
– Classic Cheek
– Soft Buffer
– Worker L
- Availability and price
THE NEW WALNUT HANDLES
The first Fundamentals (now all discontinued) had maple wood handles and were lacquered black to red. These new handles are made from walnut and are unlacquered, you can see the grain and feel the wood.
If you are familiar with the previous handles, these new handles are thinner and lighter. Take the Fan L brush (ex-Sculpt One), the previous version was 39g, today the same brush with the walnut handle is 29g. The brush is not as heavy but still feels substantial, they have different aesthetics both in finish and shape.
The shape is a bit similar to the PRO and SKY series, but we had to redesign all the handles according to this new material we were using. This is to make sure they were durable as walnut is a more delicate wood.
Each walnut handle is different in hue, some will be lighter, some darker and the pattern of the grain is unique to each piece.
The sloping silhouette of the handles accentuates the details of the wood grain, there is going to be more complexity in the grain in comparison to a straight handle crafted with the same wood.
When I saw them for the first time, I was speechless, I kept looking at the grain again and again. I was surprised and overwhelmed with emotions and I still feel the same way today!
Just like with the Keyaki handles (the Mini and the Traditions), we used Tonoko powder to perfect each handle.
Tonoko is a polishing powder made from finely powdered stone, it’s not only a traditional process that some artisans use, but it’s good to know that is has many benefits: Not only does it accentuate the grain of the walnut wood, it also mitigates the risk of shrinking and strengthens the wood.
There are several other steps involved in the making, if you love wood and Japanese craftsmanship, please stay tuned as I will be sharing all the steps of the making of the walnut handles in an editorial article that will be published very soon on the Beautylish website.
The process is extremely long and when we see all the work behind the scenes, it helps to better understand their cost and the reasons why they take so long to make.
I was able to specifically write about this process since I have a privileged relationship with both the brush and the handle manufacturer (normally companies will only be able to talk to the brush manufacturer since handle sourcing is a “behind the scenes”, confidential process).
We tried different techniques to apply the logo and labels, but engraving was not giving consistent results. We cannot risk damaging the wood on such expensive handles, so we decided to go with printing. Printing on such handles is tricky too, but it was the best option.
Beautiful handles such as these should showcase the grain, and the logo or labels should remain discrete so that you can appreciate the details and patterns of the walnut grain.
When holding or looking at the handles, what you will see first is the wood grain, the details, and each unique pattern.
The logos and labels are there if you need them, but the writing won’t disrupt the aesthetics of the wood grain.
This new Fundamental face set comes with 6 brushes:
– 4 are re-editions brought back from the original Fundamentals, they are exactly the same brush but with a different handle.
– 1 is a re-edition from the discontinued mini Keyaki set, the Classic Face. It was renamed to Classic Cheek though. It’s the same brush, but with this walnut handle instead of the keyaki mini handle.
– 1 is a new design that was never released, the Worker L.
The brushes in this Fundamental set offer a good balance in terms of fun and functionality: they are able to take care of essential tasks in a make-up application, effortlessly and quickly, but they are also capable of taking into account extra needs we may need to cover – like handling difficult products or achieving a particular placement. If you are a brush lover and collector, I hope that some of these have the potential to fill a gap in your collection!
SPECS FOR EACH BRUSH
|Total length mm
|Bristles length mm
|Price in USD
|Dyed Saikoho goat
|White Saikoho goat
|Dyed/white Saikoho goat
|White Saikoho goat
|Dyed Saikoho goat
AIRINESS – SOFTNESS – FIRMNESS – DENSITY
This table will give you an idea on how these brushes compare to each other in terms of airiness, softness, firmness, and density. For example, the Fan A is denser and firmer in comparison to the Fan M, Fan L is more airy in comparison to Fan M or A.
This table is just to give you an example of the tasks they can achieve but the result depends on the product used, the precision and the opacity that you are aiming for. I will talk in detail about the functionality of each brush further down in this post.
THE EVOLUTION OF THE FIRST FUNDAMENTALS
When we started working on these walnut handles, I was going to pick only a very small selection for the brushes. However, during the past two years, I have received so many messages about the Sculpt One, the Sculpt Two and the Sculpt Four, that it really made sense to bring these 3 fans back.
It has been a while since the first release of the Fundamentals in 2017, with time we mastered new Fude techniques, obtained new materials and we created new collections. It’s normal that some brushes evolve with time or get discontinued, but these three fans are still very much loved today, just the way they are.
They are brought back with the same specs, just with a different ferrule and handle.
The Face One was part of the First Fundamentals, this was a key brush and the one that I was the most excited about when I started to create my own designs.
We struggled to bring it back in stock at the beginning, this was due to the lack of availability of such long bristles with the same quality and softness.
We had to find a way to always keep this brush in the collection with the same bristles! We were able to find a new manufacturer and we moved this brush to the PRO series in order to keep it permanent. We renamed it the Buffer Pro and by the way, it’s going to be available again at the same time that these New Fundamentals are released (on the 18th of July).
The Face Two is the exact same brush as before, with the same quality of bristles just with a different ferrule and handle, and it has been renamed as the Soft Buffer.
The Base One has been discontinued. We created a new stippling brush that covers its functionality: the Fusion Sheer Buffer.
The Sculpt Three is not re-released but if you love this shape, the Fan Pro is the same fan, with undyed saikoho goat bristles.
A short summary:
|Discontinued, please check the Fusion Sheer Buffer instead
|Re-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as Fan L
|Re-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as Fan M
|Discontinued (please check the Fan Pro instead, same shape with different bristles)
|Re-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as Fan A
|Moved to the Pro Series and renamed as the Buffer Pro
|Re-released in these New Fundamentals, renamed as the Soft Buffer
I love fan brushes, specially since I discovered Japanese handmade fan brushes. They really stand out thanks to the amazing quality of the bristles and the consistency of the bundling, they can be considered reliable and powerful tools.
Handmade fan brushes are some of the most difficult brushes for the artisans to make, and they are also very expensive to produce.
This is mostly due to the time the artisans need to spend on each fan brush and to the higher cost of these particular ferrules.
There are 3 fan brushes in these Fundamentals, they are very soft and very dense. Instead of working like wispy fans and applying a product lightly, they work with determination and have lots of strength to diffuse and buff a product. I will share more details about each one of them further down below but I wanted to show you some pics side by side to give you a better idea of their shape and size.
Sideways, we can compare their thickness and see their curved surface at the top.
The FAN A is the softest, but the bristles are shorter, it has less flexibility in comparison to the other two fans.
The big fluffy FAN L is 3 or 4 times bigger in comparison to the other two fans.
FAN L (EX SCULPT ONE)
The FAN L is a very large face brush but since it’s curved, if we use it perpendicularly, we can adjust the pressure to increase or reduce the surface that is in contact with the skin.
With a 90° angle and medium pressure, the surface that is in contact with the skin is going to be +/- 5cm x 2cm, using more pressure will increase it, and less pressure with keep the product and the buffing on a smaller area, +/- 4cm x 1.5cm.
I use this brush mostly for bronzer because it navigates easily around the face and delivers very natural diffused results.
With blush it may seem too large for the task, but it depends on how you want the product to be diffused. If you are aiming for a horizontal technique, using this brush at a 90° angle will deliver a natural elongated application.
I use it regularly for sculpting, sculpting does a lot for me and I always include this step in my makeup routine one way or the other! If I work with powder products, this Fan L helps me to achieve an application quick and easy!
I occasionally use it with highlighter but paired with products that are on the matte side or with a subtle radiant finish (not sparkly or metallic finishes as it would be quite a wide area being covered). I would not recommend this Fan L if you are looking for a precise application.
The brush is versatile but it depends how precise you want the application to be.
The FAN L has been bundled with hakutotsuho goat bristles, these are thicker bristles in comparison to the saikoho bristles used for the Fan A or for the Soft Buffer, but the thicker bristles were a necessity for the functionality of this FAN L brush. If we make this large fan with finer saikoho goat bristles 1) the brush won’t fluff out as nicely and 2) it will lack strength for the intended purpose, we would be tempted to use more pressure while excessive pressure on long bristles is not a good thing for the durability of the brush.
Main purpose: Bronzer, Powder, Sculpting, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application).
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush, Highlight, Setting
THE FAN M (EX-SCULPT TWO)
The surface at the top is +/- 4.5cm long x 1.6 cm wide, however, using light pressure, the contact surface is reduced to +/- 3.4cm x 1.2cm.
The products that triggered the design of this fan brush were blushes and powders that I discovered and loved, but they were quite sheer or not very saturated. Their application was time consuming and I really wanted to be able to use them regularly. At the time I remember having this same discussion with my friends and followers, we were using similar products (RMK, SUQQU, THREE, ADDICTION, IPSA, etc) and sometimes we struggled with the application. I thought that there was a definite need for a brush that could fit on those small rectangular pans and that could effectively pick up the product and work it.
Today there are still many blushes, contours, highlighters that are challenging to apply but they are gorgeous, they just need a tool that can handle them.
Although this was the main reason why this fan brush was initially designed, many enjoyed using it for the application of powders, for polishing and buffing. It can do a very effective buffing in a linear / straight manner, it offers a different experience and more control in comparison to a round or a paddle type of brush.
Since the density is quite high, it was super important that it was as soft as possible, even if you have sensitive skin, this really feels like a cosy cloud.
The FAN M is not the ideal tool for bronzing all over because it’s very dense and quite firm, however, since that brush was launched in the first Fundamentals, so many of you contacted me to tell me how much they loved it for a sculpted bronzer application! Many bronzers are silky and gorgeous but difficult to pick and using this brush helps a lot with the process.
Main purpose: Powder, Highlight, Sculpting, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Setting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush, Bronzer
FAN A (EX SCULPT FOUR)
The Fan A is a medium sized Fan brush, with a shorter firmer edge and a longer more supple edge. It’s called Fan A, where the A is meant for angled. This angled shape allows a bit more precision in comparison to the Fan M. It is going to be easier to navigate near the eyes for example, or around the nose or we can also place the product on the shorter edge for more precision, glide the brush and blend with the longer bristles.
Just like with the Fan M, it is going to shine with harder products that need to be paired with a firmer tool. I would not use the Fan A for blush, however, if the blush is like a gelee and difficult to work with, the Fan A is going to do a great job applying and working the product.
The surface at the top is +/- 4cm long x 1.4 cm wide, however, using light pressure the contact surface is +/- 2.7cm x 1.3cm.
Main purpose: Sculpting, Highlight, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Setting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush
CLASSIC CHEEK – SOFT BUFFER – WORKER L
The other 3 brushes in the New Fundamentals face are:
- the Classic Cheek, it’s the Classic Face brush that was released in the Mini Keyaki set of 2020
- the Soft Buffer, exactly the same as the Face Two but with a different ferrule (matte) and with the walnut handle
- the Worker L, a new design
This is the most classic type of cheek brush, with the highest versatility in terms of size, airiness and density. For example, if you don’t know what brush to start with, or to gift to someone special, this is the one that has the highest potential to be used the most frequently.
The surface at the top is +/- 2.6cmx2 cm, it’s a fluffy brush, there is airiness but it’s not floppy at all. Since it’s between a paddle and a round brush, it can be used in any direction easily and without risks for the structure of the brush.
This Classic Cheek and the Worker L have slightly longer handles (in comparison to the other face brushes in the same set). The handles for these two brushes are thinner, so making them longer gives a more substantial weight to the handle, a better balance.
It’s exactly the same brush as the Classic Face previously released in the Mini Keyaki Set in 2020. I know many of you wished that this brush was released again, so this was the perfect opportunity and it teams really well with the other brushes in the set.
Main purpose: Blush, Powder, Setting, Highlight, Sculpting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Bronzing.
SOFT BUFFER (EX FACE TWO)
The Soft Buffer is exactly the same brush as the Face Two released in 2017.
At the time I was aiming for a blush brush with generous density but with movement and flexibility, a bit domed at the top so that when buffing, we could more easily target a smaller area. It also had to be extremely soft and the saikoho goat bristles were wonderful.
We are happy that many years later we are still able to reach the same softness.
This brush still remains very relevant today, specially if you have very sensitive skin and don’t usually enjoy buffing, this Soft Buffer is going to work like a gentle breeze. This was the reason that triggered this design in 2017, I was aiming for a blush brush that could also serve as a soft buffer and that we could use even if we have extremely sensitive skin.
As a blush brush, since the surface is domed, you will have nice control with the placement. As a buffer, with a buffing type of pressure, the surface of the brush that is in contact with the skin will reach approx 2.5 cm diameter.
I use this brush the most with blushes that aren’t very pigmented, with finishing powders, and quite regularly for sculpting with contours or bronzers that are a bit difficult to pick up.
Main purpose: Powder, Setting, Finishing (blending or buffing the final application), Blush.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Bronzing, Sculpting.
SOFT BUFFER – SHEER BUFFER – SMOOTH BUFFER – BUFFER PRO
There are quite a few buffers across the series! The Sheer Buffer is a stippling brush designed mainly for liquids and creams, it delivers a very soft and diffused application, the other 3 buffers are for powder products:
- The Buffer Pro has a flat surface and bristles that flex and move together with a similar strength across its surface. It will set, tone down or smooth out the final application with a similar intensity on a large area.
- The Smooth Buffer functions like the Buffer Pro but it has a smaller diameter, it allows more control on the area to buff.
- The Soft Buffer has a slightly domed surface, the center of the brush will work with more precision and with more strength in comparison to the edges. It has more flexibility in comparison to the previous two.
If you are going for a very fast buffing all over the face, the Buffer Pro is the way to go.
If you are looking for an effective buffing tool but for example only on the cheek area, or to smooth out the contour, the Smooth Buffer is more appropriate for a powerful buffing with more control in comparison to the Buffer Pro.
The Soft Buffer will deliver a softer buffing but with more precision in comparison to the other two.
This Worker L is a new design, it was inspired by a paintbrush and adapted for the face. The idea behind it is to work on details, to perfect, to add accents, or do anything you want on a small perimeter.
It’s quite dense and powerful because the idea was to be able to buff or smooth out a product with strength in areas where bigger brushes cannot navigate easily.
It doesn’t work like a small airy brush, in comparison, a airier brush may not have the strength to work the products properly when the skin has too much elasticity or texture. This Worker L is extremely soft, this was super important because if we intend to use it around the eyes, it just has to be!
The Worker L is part of the “Workers” family, they are called workers because they can tackle different tasks that aren’t always directly related. For example, we could use this little brush for contour, but also to powder smaller areas (around the nose, the eyes, the lips), for highlighter application, to buff and polish tiny areas or to add blush topper or colour accents.
I would not use the Worker L for blush, however, if the blush is the size of an eyeshadow pan and you want to work with an eyeshadow on the cheeks -as a blush or a topper- that’s a fantastic brush to use, just keep in mind that it’s dense. It does have flexibility though and the bristles flow so smoothly that it feels almost therapeutic.
Main purpose: Detail work on the face, Powder, Setting, Highlight, Sculpting.
Optional purpose (depending on the precision or the product): Blush.
The surface that is in contact with the skin is approx 1.4 cm in diameter.
It’s similar to the Detail Pro in the Pro series. The Detail Pro has a smaller ferrule (1mm difference in diameter), a slightly smaller surface and it’s airier in comparison to the Worker L.
If you have the Detail Pro, it’s difficult to justify purchasing both and I don’t think it’s a necessity at all, but here is where they differ:
The Detail Pro is smaller and airier.
The Worker L is denser, the application is going to be more sustained and with more intensity in comparison, it will be stronger for buffing or polishing.
In the first Fundamentals, we had the Sculpt Three for precision work, but it was replaced here with this Worker L.
If you love the idea of a little fan for detail work, since the Sculpt Three is not in this release, the Fan Pro is an available option at the moment.
AVAILABILITY AND PRICE
The brushes are not Limited Edition, but they may evolve in the future, this depends on the feedback and on the future collections. As we move on and work on our new projects and restocks, we adapt to the availability of the materials and the new techniques that become available.
The 6 brushes of this set will be available on Beautylish starting on the 18th of July at 10am PT. They will be available as a set and as individuals.
If you wish you can add your name to the Beautylish launch list to be notified when they are available.
Thank you for your kind continuous support, I hope that you will love these brushes and if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to meet me in the comments below!